Most of us have not heard of white tea at all and those of us who have, have probably not heard that there is white tea from Assam as well as from China. In fact there is white tea from Darjeeling too. White tea historically comes from China and is made to exacting standards. It is rare, so much so that even today little is exported. Most is consumed within China itself.
So what is white tea? White tea is rather like green tea in that the leaf is not oxidised in air (or fermented as it is known). After picking the leaf is allowed to wither. Green tea is then rolled and soon fired for a short time to stop this oxidation. How is white tea different to green tea therefore, I ask you say? Well, the leaf is not rolled so no bruising occurs. Furthermore, and most importantly, the leaf is picked very young; so young in fact that it is hardly leaf at all but still retains the form of the downy white bud. Here is the essence of white tea: it is young, fresh, smooth and very subtle. It has a buttery warmth and typically has the feint aroma of fresh peaches or apricots.
White tea does sound attractive but should I try white tea from China, Darjeeling or Assam?
White tea originates from Fujian Province in China but has extended to such provinces as Anhui, Zhejiang and Yunnan. China white teas tend to be buttery and sweet tasting. Baihao Yinzhen - White Down Silver Needles from Fujian Province and Lung Ching - Dragon Well Zhejiang province are two of the most famous. The former is noted for the lovely paleness of its leaves which are beautifully twisted and have a lovely fresh hay-like, honeyed aroma giving a buttery taste with a definite sweetness. The latter is noted for its dark needle-like leaves which are pressed flat by hand. In the cup this tea has a wonderful almondy hint. Amongst China’s many white teas can also be mentioned Yunnan Province’s White Dragon which has a lovely floral character.
Darjeeling produces very little white tea but it does command a high price and has a lovely muscatel sweetness. Assam also produces very little but high quality white tea which is greatly in demand. This again emphasises the exclusiveness of white teas from India. White Assam has the distinct warm bodied maltiness which Assam is famous for but with the subtle floral notes for which white teas are renown.
When should these exclusive teas best be appreciated?
The subtlety does demand relaxed moments in which to enjoy these teas. Late evening is best and they are ideally suited to enjoying before retiring for the night as they are very low in caffeine. At this time of day one will also hopefully have the time to admire the beautiful shapes and colour of these hand picked teas. One should not hurry either as the adage ‘the best things come to those who wait’ could not be more true as far as white teas are concerned: they should be brewed from seven to fifteen minutes to enjoy to the full their wonderfully delicate flavours. The time is well spent for it is at this culmination of the day that one can relax and reflect that one can occasionally indulge oneself in one of the world’s true luxuries after all.
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