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Guidelines For Your Spring Garden



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By : Mark Tinkler    29 or more times read
Submitted 2010-10-08 07:16:49
Installing new plants and getting them to grow fruitfully seriously is not hard, nor is it as difficult as some may like you to think. Is it as simple as digging a hole and setting the plant in.

Balled in burlap (B and B).
Thoroughly look at the ball around the plant that you have bought. Did the diggers wrap twine all-around the ball to hold the plant secure? If they did, you must at the very least cut the cord and lay it inside the floor of the hole, or remove it totally. Pay close attention around the stem of the plant where it emerges on the root ball, diggers often wrap the cord around the stem several times as they tie the ball. This is exceedingly important because if the string is nylon, it is not going to rot and will choke and kill the plant two or three years along the line.

Once B and B plants are saved in the nursery for unlimited durations of time it becomes essential to re-burlap them if the underside begins to rot before the plants are sold. If ever the plant that you purchase has been re-burlaped it will be likely that there could potentially be nylon strings between to both layers of burlap, check the stem cautiously. Provided the nylon string is detached from round the stem of the plant, it it is essentially harmless around the remainder of the ball, and you will not need to do away with it.

What form of soil are you planting in?
If the soil is heavy clay, I would advise you raise the planting bed a minimum of 8” with decent rich topsoil. If you can't do that for any reason, install the plant in order that at least 2” or more of the root ball is above the existing ground and mound the soil over the root ball. Take into account that plants installed in this way may dry out over the summer season, but planting them flush with the soil in heavy clay could mean the roots will likely be too wet at other times of the year.

The experts advise that when planting in clay soil you dig the opening wider and deeper than the root ball and fill around and under the plant with slack organic material. It sounds like a really grand idea doesn't it? Some of these experts also recommend that you simply dig the hole extra deep and put a few inches of gravel on the bottom for drainage. Where do they think this water is going to drain to? It will in point of fact sit in the bottom of the hole.

When water reaches our freshly planted tree surrounded by loose organic matter, it is will seep in until the planting hole is absolutely filled with water. Through the use of this planting technique we've actually developed what's called a French drain around our poor tiny plant that cannot tolerate its roots being starved of oxygen for extended intervals of time. As the base of this hole is clay, even though we've added gravel for drainage, there will be no where for this water to travel so it lays in the foundation of the hole, this starves the plant of oxygen which means that it is likely to suffer and porbably die.

In the event you can not raise the planting bed with topsoil, and you are planting in clay, I advise that you just fit the root ball a minimum of 2” above ground and backfill round the ball with the soil that you dug out whenever you created the hole. Backfilling using the clay soil that you just removed is in fact like constructing a dam to keep excess water from penetrating the root ball of your newly planted tree. The plant isn’t likely to flourish with this poor soil, but at least it could have the possible opportunity to stay alive.

Container grown plants are much less complicated.
Follow the rules for depth of planting as described earlier in this article. Before gently removing the plant out of your container check the drain holes in the bottom of your container for roots that may be growing from the holes. If there is any, cut them off so they do not help it become tricky to remove the plant from the container.

Look at the root mass whilst you hold it within your hand. Sometimes when plants have been growing in a container for an extended period the roots start to grow in a very circular pattern round the root mass. This seriously is not good, and you must disturb these roots prior to planting so you can break this circular pattern. You should take a knife and actually make about three vertical slices at the top of the root mass towards the bottom. This would stimulate new roots which will grow outward into the soil of the garden. Or it's possible just use your fingers and loosen the roots which have been circling the root mass forcing them outward before you start planting them.

Author Resource:

I have always had the gardens of my properties that I own maintained by exactly the same gardener london company and over the years they've saved me a lot of my cash, just by giving me some very useful advise.

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